No-Frills Udipi Cafe Makes Masala Right

By Sarah Phelps

If your desire for great food outweighs your need for snazzy ambience or sharp service, then your palate demands a visit to Udipi Café, named after a town on the coast of Southern India. Set instead in the middle of a small, outdated-looking strip mall on University just north of Sunrise, this completely vegetarian restaurant appears unremarkable both prior to and after your immediate entrance through the door. The establishment is clean, but very basic, and the service quite lackluster, to say the least. The food, however, is far from mediocre.

My first bite of Bhel Puri, a marvelously flavorful, tangy, sweet, and very spicy combination of assorted crunchies mixed with onion, tomato, cilantro, and chutney, nearly knocked me over. Although the members of my weak-kneed party had to reach for sips of water after each bite, it was well worth it; both the mouth-watering “street food” and the pitcher of water on the table were gone within minutes. The samosas, potato bondas, and vegetable cutlets were nicely crispy, but somewhat less surprising. Nonetheless, we had more to come. As a result of our own cluelessness and poor communication with our server, we accidentally enjoyed yet another group appetizer: we dove into the Coconut Rava Masala Dosai before realizing that it was the entrée ordered by a member of our party. This unimaginably large plate of what looked like an immense hash brown actually held thin, lacy cream of wheat and coconut “crepes” containing a flavorful potato mixture. Those brave enough to tackle this interesting and somewhat overwhelming plate of food should definitely smuggle in a sharpened pizza cutter to get to the savory insides sooner; by the time my medical-student-brother neatly carved his entrance with his butter knife, he was nearly full.

When the rest of our main courses arrived, our expectations were high, and the curry dishes met these rising standards. The Vegetable Kofta, a creamy sauce containing a soft ball of potato, cheese, and dried fruit, was rich and flavorful, although the dried fruit listed on the menu was not particularly evident. The Tawa Mushroom Paneer, a curry of sliced mushrooms and cubes of paneer, or pressed curd cheese, was dressed in a zesty “tawa gravy,” a slightly sweet sauce that turned out to be one of the favorite sauces at the table. My personal favorite, however, was (hands down) the Chana Masala, a seemingly simple dish of chickpeas cooked in what the menu terms “exotic Indian spices.” I’ve had this standard in quite a few places over the years, and this is one of the best Chana Masalas I can remember, offering a symphony of intense, vivid flavors: the bold tomato, spices, and fresh cilantro combine to create a sauce that is spicy, yet round, with a slight sweetness and heaviness to balance out the kick. In addition, this dish is dairy-free, so for once, the vegans at the table didn’t have to settle for the less exciting menu options. Other vegan choices include several tofu dishes such as Tofu Mutter Makhni Kajoo, with green peas and cashews in a tomato-based sauce, and Tofu Ya Aloo or Chana, served with either potatoes or chickpeas. Overall, the food was delicious, the only disappointment being the Yellow Dal, which seemed bitter and flat in comparison to the other curries.

If you can look past the strip mall setting, the extremely passive service, and the fact that no beer or wine is sold at the establishment (although I was told you can bring your own), you won’t be disappointed with the food, which is not only surprisingly good, but also relatively inexpensive, with all meals under $9 and a daily lunch buffet for $7.48. As someone who likes to sample dishes ordered by everyone at the table, I plan to try the buffet very soon. Not only will I be less dependent on my server, but will most importantly get to enjoy more “street food” and Chana Masala while sampling some of the other dishes I didn’t get the opportunity to taste, such as the various types of Uthappam, or Indian “pizza” served with chutneys. It will take several trips to, as the menu suggests, “get a taste for the rich history of Hindustan.” So far, I like it – regardless of setting.

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